The textile industry is expanding rapidly, yet strong, sustainable alternatives are still limited. Water continues to be overused, soil health is declining, and cotton and polyester carry a heavy environmental burden. Brands want to act responsibly but struggle to find materials that work at scale. Manufacturers hesitate to change due to high costs, and consumers are left without truly better choices. When natural fibres like jute, flax, and hemp are not adapted for modern production, they remain underused, and the pressure on the planet keeps rising. This growing concern needs practical solutions before the damage becomes harder to reverse.
Ashish Kankaria, Promoter and Managing Director of Yajur Fibres Limited, is working to close this gap by:
- Converting long bast fibres into cottonised fibres compatible with existing short staple fibre spinning systems
- Leading research, development & innovation in mechanically cottonising fibres to meet cotton spinning production standards, and compliance systems.
- Yajur has already produced bast fibre qualities that are running up to 3x of its original speed
- Because of continuous innovation, these bast fibre blends are producing yarn qualities which, on 100% bast fibre content, were unimaginable. Yet, keeping the essence and expression of the best fibres alive in both fabric & made ups.
- Expanding business operations to meet global quality standards
- Ensuring sustainable fibres move from niche use to mainstream textile production
With his guidance, the cottonised fibre segment grew from zero to over ₹100 crores in revenue within five years. A major milestone was the commercial production of upto 50% cottonised jute blended yarn, later developed into denim, home textiles, and wearable apparel. This achievement transformed jute from a packaging fibre into a performance fibre for fashion and home textiles, reinforcing Yajur Fibres’ position as a pioneer in sustainable fibre innovation.
A Childhood Rooted in the World of Bast Fibres
Ashish Kankaria’s journey with Yajur Fibres Limited began long before the company was formally established. Growing up in a family deeply involved in bast fibres, he was introduced early to the world of jute through everyday conversations and practical exposure. Discussions at home were not limited to business alone but were also shaped by strong values and Jain principles, which influenced his sense of responsibility toward society and the environment. This foundation shaped his technical understanding of fibres and his belief that business should create long-term impact.
Over time, the Kankaria Group evolved into one of the largest producers of jute goods, supported by more than 85 years of experience. With decades of hands-on expertise in jute manufacturing, the group gradually expanded its knowledge into other bast fibres such as flax and hemp. This natural progression led to the formation and growth of Yajur Fibres Limited, built on a strong legacy, technical depth, and a clear commitment to sustainable fibre innovation.
Proving Scalability in a Niche Industry
One of the toughest challenges Ashish Kankaria faced was proving that a niche sustainable product could truly perform at a mainstream industrial scale. While the cottonised fibre segment grew from zero to over ₹100 crores in revenue within five years, the real test was not demand but technical execution. It was essential to ensure that sustainable bast fibres could match cotton’s performance within existing spinning systems without requiring manufacturers to change machinery, slow production, or increase costs.
He guided the transformation of long bast fibres, typically 3 to 10 feet in length, into uniform 30 to 40 mm fibres that blend smoothly with cotton and run at speeds three to four times higher than traditional bast processing. This journey reinforced a key lesson: sustainable innovation must be practical, efficient, and commercially viable to succeed at scale.
Daily Focus on Natural Fibres
For Ashish Kankaria and the team at Yajur Fibres, sustainable fibre innovation is more than a business goal. It is a shared commitment that guides their daily work and long-term vision. Natural fibres are part of their regular conversations, planning, and decision-making. The team constantly looks for better ways to improve bast fibres and expand their practical use. While they value the progress they have achieved so far, they remain focused on finding new possibilities and taking sustainable fibres further.
Hidden Potential of Bast Fibres
Yajur Fibres addresses one of the textile industry’s biggest challenges: overdependence on cotton, which strains water resources and degrades soil, while sustainable alternatives like jute, flax, and hemp remain underused. With less than one per cent of global mills equipped to process bast fibres, scaling these materials is a major hurdle. Yajur Fibres bridges this gap by developing practical solutions that convert bast fibres into forms compatible with existing spinning systems. This approach allows bast fibres to move from niche applications into mainstream textile production, offering a sustainable, eco-friendly alternative for brands, manufacturers, and consumers alike.
High-Quality Fibre Blends
Yajur Fibres stands out through disciplined operations and continuous improvement:
- Strong compliance and structured systems
- Internal and external feedback to refine products
- Regular machinery upgrades to meet evolving technical standards
- Dedicated R&D team improving fibre quality and specifications
This ensures reliable performance, technical excellence, and long-term sustainability, giving Yajur Fibres a competitive and ethical advantage.
Sustainable Fashion in Action
One of the Yajur Fibres’ biggest achievements is the commercial production of 55 per cent cottonised fibres blended yarn, which has been turned into fabric and finished products. This milestone changed the way Bast Fibres is seen and used. Once mainly used for packaging, jute is now part of wearable clothing and value-added textiles. This breakthrough is not just a win for the company but also sets a new standard for the entire bast fibres industry, showing what innovation can achieve.
Bast Fibres on the Rise
Ashish Kankaria emphasises that bast fibres such as flax, hemp, and jute are gaining importance as sustainable alternatives to cotton. What was once niche is now moving toward mainstream adoption, with future textiles expected to contain at least 30% bast fibre.
To lead this transformation, Yajur Fibres is:
- Investing in automation
- Expanding production capacity
- Maintaining high-quality standards and efficient operations
This positions the company at the forefront of sustainable fibre innovation, making eco-friendly textiles scalable, practical, and commercially viable.
Strategic Collaborations
Yajur Fibres is actively working to strengthen collaborations with national and global retailers to expand the use of cottonised bast fibres in larger blends across everyday products. These applications range from home textiles and apparel to technical textiles. By building these partnerships, the organization aims to make sustainable fibre solutions more accessible and practical for mainstream markets. Its fibres address a growing global demand for materials that are environmentally responsible, reliable, and suitable for large-scale production.
Holds Several Internationally Recognized Certifications
Yajur Fibres operates with a strong focus on compliance and global standards. The company holds several internationally recognized certifications, including ISO 9001, ISO 14001, ISO 45001, OEKO-TEX Standard 100, and European Flax. These certifications reflect its commitment to quality management, environmental responsibility, workplace safety, and sustainable sourcing. In addition, the company is actively working to meet and align with the specific compliance requirements of leading global retailers, strengthening its credibility and readiness for long-term international partnerships.
Advice For Upcoming Leaders and Entrepreneurs
Ashish Kankaria advises upcoming leaders and entrepreneurs to stay true to their original vision while driving meaningful innovation in the textile industry, which is poised for strong growth in the next five years, especially in India. He emphasizes the importance of integrating sustainability into every decision by guiding consumers toward eco-friendly and biodegradable choices. Such actions reduce pressure on natural resources and restore soil health and protect the environment. For Ashish, business progress and responsibility toward the planet must grow together.
Quick Takes
One quote that motivates you the most:
I’m destiny’s child. I’m born for greater things!
One piece of advice you would offer to upcoming entrepreneurs or future business leaders:
AI is extraordinary, surely, but game-changing innovations come from group discussions, a pen and a board. Nature is and should be our biggest inspiration, and this is powered by reading books and podcasts. I would recommend reading inspiring true-life stories.
One movie or book you recommend everyone in business or leadership should experience:
Art of war, Buy back your time, Think & grow rich.
Ashish Kankaria’s 5 Powerful Business Mantars
- Make Sustainability Practical: Sustainability should deliver performance and real industry value, not remain just an ideal.
- Build with Strong Systems: Long-term growth depends on discipline, compliance, and continuous improvement.
- Innovate to Solve Challenges: Turning complex fibre problems into scalable solutions proves that efficiency and sustainability can go together.
- Scale Responsibly: Eco-friendly alternatives must move from niche markets to mainstream adoption.
- Lead with Purpose: Business success and environmental responsibility should grow together to create lasting impact.
